Thomasina Miers’ recipes for slow-cooked pork belly with chipotle and Mexican-style smacked cucumbers

A picture


Mexico’s love of pork is well documented, but how the country is influenced by so many different food cultures not so much be that exotic ingredients from the east such as sesame, tamarind and cloves, the importation of kebab cooking from the Lebanese or the use of French techniques from the short reign of Maximilian,Here, the scraps in the pan, a mirepoix and the classic pairing of smoked chillies and tamarind would work well with any cut of pork but, with belly, its flavour melts into the beautifully tangy, smoky sauce,Cooking the skin separately ensures a delightfully crisp and light scratching that’s perfect for scooping up the rich sauce,Prep 10 min Cook 3 hr 30 min+ Serves 6-81½ kg pork belly, skin and meat separated (ask the butcher to do this for you, if need be) 4 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion2 medium carrots 2 celery sticks1 medium leek, cut in half lengthways and washed20g butter4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped1 large thumb ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 2 tbsp tamarind puree – the best you can get1½ tbsp chipotle in adobo 60ml sherry300ml pineapple juice 3 bay leavesFor the rub1½ tbsp coriander seeds 1 tsp black peppercorns 2 star anise 2 tsp fennel seeds 1 small cinnamon stick 2 tsp ancho chilli flakes SaltAn hour or two before cooking, take both the belly and skin out of the fridge to come to room temperature,To make the rub, put a small frying pan on a medium heat for a few minutes, then gently toast the coriander seeds, peppercorns, star anise, fennel seeds and cinnamon for a few minutes, until fragrant.

Stir in the ancho flakes and toast for 20-30 seconds, then tip the spices into a grinder, add two teaspoons of salt and grind to a powder,Rub both the pork belly and skin with a tablespoon of olive oil, then rub in half the spice mix,Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9,Dice the onion, carrots, celery and white part of the leek (save the green part for stock),Put the pork belly in a deep roasting dish just big enough to hold it snugly, then cover with foil.

Put the skin on a separate baking sheet.Roast both the pork belly and skin for half an hour.Heat the remaining oil and the butter in a large casserole on a medium heat, add the diced vegetables and the rest of the rub, and sweat, stirring often, for 15 minutes.Stir in the garlic and ginger, saute for another few minutes, then stir in the tamarind, chipotle, sherry, pineapple juice, bay leaves and 150ml water.Bring to a simmer, then take off the heat.

Once the pork and skin have had half an hour, turn down the oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/gas 3,Gently lift the pork belly out of its roasting dish, pour in the vegetables, then set the meat back on top,Cover again and roast for another two to two and a half hours, until completely tender,Transfer the pork belly and crisp skin to a warm plate to rest,Tip the contents of the roasting tray into a blender, blitz to a thick puree, then taste and adjust with a pinch more salt, a dash more pineapple juice or a slosh more sherry.

Serve the pork with its delicious sauce and the smacked cucumbers below on the side.These are seasoned with ancho chilli and lime for a light, Mexican twist on the classic.Prep 10 min Cook 15 min Serves 62 cucumbers, washed1 large pinch fine sea saltFor the dressing½ tsp soft brown sugar 1 tsp salt 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed1 large thumb ginger, peeled and finely grated1 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp brown rice vinegar 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil Juice of 1 lime1 tbsp ancho chilli flakesToasted sesame seeds, to garnishPut the cucumbers on a large chopping board.Using a rolling pin, smack them a couple of times along their length, so the skin breaks in places, then cut the cucumbers in half.Chop into rough 2-3cm chunks, then put in a colander.

Sprinkle over the sea salt, toss to combine, then leave to drain for 10 minutes,Meanwhile, make the dressing: whisk the sugar, salt, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, brown rice vinegar, sesame oil and lime juice in a small bowl,Gently toast the ancho chilli flakes in a dry frying pan on a medium-low heat for a minute, until fragrant, then tip into a spice grinder or mortar, and grind to a fine powder,Drain the cucumber and arrange it on a large platter,Pour the dressing all over the top, toss to coat, then sprinkle over the ancho chilli powder and toasted sesame seeds, and serve.

politicsSee all
A picture

Michael Gove says personal attacks on ex-wife Sarah Vine ‘hurt so much’

Michael Gove has said that the most hurtful part of his political career was the attacks on his former wife, Sarah Vine.In extracts of a new BBC podcast about politics hosted by Gove, the former Conservative minister and MP said this was particularly the case when an email in 2016 from Vine offering advice to her then-husband was accidentally sent to other recipients and leaked to the media.Vine, a Daily Mail columnist, had intended to send the email to Gove and his then-advisers, but sent it more widely, and it was passed on to outlets including the Guardian.Coming when Gove had been expected to support Boris Johnson’s bid to become Conservative leader to replace David Cameron, Vine told him and the advisers to hold back until there was a specific offer of a cabinet job.It said: “One simple message: you MUST have SPECIFIC from Boris OTHERWISE you cannot guarantee your support

A picture

James Cleverly spent £655 a head on in-flight catering for one-day trip to Rwanda

The in-flight catering for James Cleverly’s one-day round trip to Rwanda last December, while he was home secretary, cost £655 a head.Cleverly spent £165,561 chartering a private jet for his 11-hour visit to Kigali to sign Rishi Sunak’s deportation deal after the supreme court’s finding that Rwanda was an “unsafe country”.He travelled to Kigali with officials and a TV crew on 4 December and signed the new legally binding treaty alongside Rwanda’s foreign affairs minister, Vincent Biruta.It can now be revealed that the catering for the eight-and-a-half hour return flight for Cleverly and his 14 officials cost £9,803.20, or £653

A picture

Labour must keep its promise to consult on the future of the House of Lords | Letters

Re Simon Jenkins’ article (Starmer’s House of Lords reform only scratches the surface of its problems, 14 October), as a network of organisations working on power and democracy in the UK, we welcome the second reading of the hereditary peers bill last week. Although removing the indefensible hereditary peers from the Lords, whose title and position in parliament depends upon a quirk of birth, is a laudable first step, this reform does not go nearly far enough to restore trust and clean up politics.We’re calling on the government to deliver on its manifesto promise of a proper consultation on the future of the Lords, including via a representative citizens’ assembly, to let the people decide who should be holding politicians to account and making sure laws are sensible and fair.Continuing a system of political appointees risks accusations of cronyism and conflicts of interest. We need a second chamber that makes the most of the views and experience of a much more representative group

A picture

Ministers urged to increase basic rate of UK statutory sick pay

Ministers are under pressure to increase the basic rate of statutory sick pay (SSP) from £3 an hour for a full-time worker, amid concerns that hundreds of thousands of people a year are left without adequate financial support to pay essential bills while off work.The government will launch a consultation on Monday to coincide with the second reading of its employment rights bill, under which workers will get paid sick leave from day one, with those on earnings below the threshold of £123 a week eligible.Campaigners have welcomed the changes, but they want ministers to go further and raise sick pay, which is fixed at £116 a week and pegged to the inflation rate. They argue that the low rate pushes vulnerable people into poverty.In a letter to Keir Starmer, a group of charities including Citizens Advice, Macmillan Cancer Support, Mind and Maggie’s called on the government to amend the bill so ministers can increase sick pay amid the worsening health of working-age people

A picture

Angela Rayner given permanent seat on UK national security council

Angela Rayner has been given a permanent seat on the UK government’s national security council as the rebooted Downing Street operation seeks to smooth over reports of tensions between Keir Starmer and his deputy.Allies of the deputy prime minister had shared concerns she was being sidelined when it emerged two weeks ago that she had been given only a temporary place on the committee that brings together ministers with military and intelligence chiefs.However, the Guardian understands she has now been made a permanent member of the NSC, which discusses and assesses the biggest threats facing Britain, as part of a concerted effort driven by the new No 10 chief of staff, Morgan McSweeney, to bolster her position.Starmer has also strengthened the “quad” of his most senior ministers to become a proper steering group for the government’s agenda, insiders said. As well as Rayner, it includes Rachel Reeves, the chancellor, and Pat McFadden, the senior cabinet office minister

A picture

Rachel Reeves urged to ringfence NHS funding on illness prevention

Rachel Reeves is being urged to use next week’s budget to ringfence health spending on prevention so it is protected from cuts when money is tight.A letter sent to the chancellor by a leading health charity, thinktanks and the body that represents accountants says carving out a new category of preventive spending would mean a healthier population and save the NHS money.The letter, seen by the Guardian, welcomes Labour’s emphasis on prevention but says there has been a long history of previous administrations making similar pledges only for services that affect health outcomes to become a casualty of pressures on day-to-day budgets and a victim of short-term thinking.Analysis by the Health Foundation – one of the signatories to the letter – showed that in the five years leading up to the pandemic (2014-19) spending on hospitals rose by 10%. The share of health spending devoted to prevention fell by 10% during that period