Juliet, Stroud, Gloucestershire: ‘One of those places where you can lose track of time’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

A picture


An all-day modern European bistro with a back story that will prick the ears of all right-thinking dinersNot one soul in Stroud, Gloucestershire, will not thank me for my visit to Juliet.Despite being a magnet for the Cotswolds arts scene, the town has long slid under the radar of most folk fleeing London in search of fresh air.Deal, Aldeburgh, Hastings? Absolutely.But Stroud? Not so much.But now there is Juliet, complete with a back story that will prick the ears of all right-thinking foodie types, because this is an all-day modern European bistro dreamed up by the sculptor Daniel Chadwick.

It serves mousse de canard with a translucent layer of glorious fat to spread on fresh baguette, bowls of clams with chickpeas and girolles, and devilled eggs with trout roe.If you’re an early bird, Juliet opens from 9.30am Monday to Saturday for coffee and freshly baked madeleines.Chadwick, whose other joint is the Woolpack, a much-loved hostelry in Slad just up the road, is my favourite type of hospitality character.He is vision-led, distinctly non-corporate and propelled by an urge to take old things and re-love them.

For many decades, the Woolpack was famous for being the favourite watering hole of the author Laurie Lee.It could have closed down or become a soulless tourist trap, but in Chadwick’s hands it is back to being a working, breathing, archly boho local boozer with a history, a library, a crackling fire, a fabulous menu and outdoor loos with cold seats that certainly woke me up when I spent a penny there in deepest winter a couple of years ago.Juliet, meanwhile, is fresh evidence of just what happens when Chadwick “has a good idea”.He has whisked several of the Woolpack team into town, including chefs Adam Glover and Oliver Gyde, and installed a fabulous front-of-house in Ophélie Théberge, a wine expert who apparently was actually born on a vineyard.Their new restaurant lives in the former Stroud Music Centre, a well-established, albeit neglected venue that’s perched on a corner not far from the train station and is now painted bright white.

If the Woolpack is rustic and errs on the rough and ready, Juliet is its la-di-da cousin with combed hair.It has a crisp, pale, stylish decor and an atmosphere – and wine list – that lures you in to enjoy the “service non-stop” as the French still often call it.After those 9.30am madeleines and coffees, you can shift to a Suze and tonic while perusing the plat du jour, which on the day we visited was freshly made bullets of cavatelli in a rich duck ragu; on other days there have been mackerel in bisque and polenta with braised lamb and olives.In a discreet side room, named “the Piano Room”, there’s an upright joanna and convivial tinkling while you eat one of the daily offerings of bavette with peppercorn sauce and a side of ratte potatoes.

Juliet, which is named after Chadwick’s wife, is one of those places where diners can lose track of time.We arrived at 1pm and left at 3.30pm, by which time some of the other diners seemed to have already bedded in for the evening.We began with a round of alcohol-free clementine gimlets and some crisp, herby sage panisse, followed by a round of oeufs mayonnaise with large, salty Cantabrian anchovies – the glossy, thick and fresh mustardy mayo was a particular delight.As was the smooth, rich earthiness of that pink duck mousse, which showcased beautiful, precise cooking.

A bowl of baked delica squash dripped with a rich tapenade of olive oil and almond, while a bowl of homemade pickled carrot, cauliflower and endive was just the right amount of bite, sharpness and sweetness.I was less fond of the artichoke barigoule, although my friend Hugh disagreed and gobbled it up.To his credit, though, he did give me the biggest share of the day’s plat.I adore fresh cavatelli – they have all the plump, sating qualities of gnocchi, but without the fluffiness of potato.Here at Juliet they came in abundance in that rich, pleasantly unrefined duck stew.

As we ordered dessert, the other guests didn’t seem to notice that day was turning to night outside.Passersby walked in and joined tables.Speaking of dessert, special acknowledgment has to be made to Juliet’s apple tarte tatin, because it’s one of the best I have ever demolished.Tarte tatin is a tricky beast, but Juliet’s is caramelised to the point of deepest mahogany, while the fruit somehow still retains its structure, and the thin, crisp pastry cuts in perfect slices.Served with chantilly, it was breathtaking.

Juliet is seriously worth a schlep to Stroud, but you had better book well in advance.Right now, it seems, the locals are settling in for winter.Juliet 49 London Road, Stroud, Gloucestershire, 01453 367019.Open Mon-Sat, lunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 6-9.

30pm (bar menu noon-9.30pm).From about £40 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service
technologySee all
A picture

‘Don’t feed the troll’: German chancellor responds to Elon Musk comments

When the German chancellor, Olaf Scholz, was asked in an interview about the barrage of insults being directed at him and other German leaders by Elon Musk, the world’s richest man, his reply was: “Don’t feed the troll.”Speaking to the German weekly Stern, Scholz described the criticisms as nothing new. “You have to stay cool,” he said in the interview. “As Social Democrats, we have long been used to the fact that there are rich media entrepreneurs who do not appreciate social democratic politics – and do not hide their opinions.”He said he would make no efforts to engage with Musk, who has endorsed the far-right Alternative für Deutschland (AfD) in next month’s federal elections and will host a live discussion on his social media platform X with its candidate for chancellor, Alice Weidel

A picture

Why Elon Musk’s Starship rocket is beating Nasa in the space race

It was one of the most striking technological events of the year. On 13 October, Starship, the world’s largest and most powerful rocket, blasted into space from a launchpad in Texas. Its main booster reached an altitude of more than 65km before it began to hurtle back to Earth at a velocity greater than the speed of sound.A crash was averted when the rocket – built by Elon Musk’s SpaceX company – reignited its engines and slowed down until it hovered tantilisingly over the tower from which it had been fired aloft only seven minutes earlier. Pincer claws grasped the giant launcher and held it firmly in their grip, ready for refurbishment and relaunch

A picture

How Elon Musk’s X became the global right’s supercharged front page

As a business proposition, Elon Musk’s ownership of X, formerly known as Twitter, has so far been a disaster: since he acquired it in late 2022, the social media company, according to one estimate, has lost nearly 80% of its value.As a political proposition, however, Musk’s purchase may turn out to be one of the shrewdest investments of all time. Every week, the platform seems to supercharge a news issue that comes to dominate conservative discourse – and often mainstream discourse, as well – with real political repercussions.Sometimes these topics are inflammatory conspiracy theories, like a false rumor that Haitian immigrants in Springfield, Ohio, had been eating cats and dogs, which became a talking point in the final days of the US presidential election and led to bomb threats and harassment against Springfield residents.Other times, X, often aided by Musk’s own posts, elevates fact-based but contentious stories – about illegal immigration, government waste, visa fraud, population decline, youth gender transition or government crackdowns on social media speech – that the mainstream media is perceived to have ignored or downplayed

A picture

How to deal with Zoom calls in 2025: in smaller groups with static backgrounds

Whether it’s a social catch-up with colleagues, or assembling to set new year objectives, many of us will be reconnecting via Zoom, Teams or Google Meet come Monday morning. Yet while such platforms have revolutionised flexible and remote working in recent years, scientists are increasingly waking up to the negative toll they can take on people’s energy levels and self-esteem. So how can we forge a healthier relationship with videoconferencing in 2025?Relatively early during the pandemic, psychologists coined the phrase “Zoom fatigue” to describe the physical and psychological exhaustion that can come from spending extended periods on videoconferencing platforms such as Zoom. It was found that people who have more and longer meetings using the technology, or have more negative attitudes towards them, tend to feel more exhausted by them.Further studies have linked the use of the self view function, which allows you to control whether your video is displayed on your screen during a meeting, to greater levels of fatigue

A picture

Football coaches could soon be calling on AI to scout the next superstar

Football coaches desperate to boost their team’s performance could soon find an answer in an artificial intelligence system aimed at conjuring the next superstar.A kind of sporting Aladdin’s lamp is within reach, technologists claim, which could allow managers to simply wish for a new player with the aggression of Erling Haaland or the poise of Jude Bellingham and for an AI to suggest the perfect prospect.A system that uses video and automated tracking to monitor the performances of nearly 180,000 mostly teenage footballers around the world underpins the services of Eyeball, a digital scouting company that already has relationships with more than a dozen Premier League clubs and other elite teams in Europe and North America.Using what it claims is the largest video database of global youth football – with players logged from 28 countries – the company says it can now determine which young players most fit the description of current or recent top stars as defined by one of eight archetypes. These include the ideal “box-to-box midfielder”, “modern No 9”, “playmaking No 10” and “inverted wing-back”

A picture

Meta is killing off its own AI-powered Instagram and Facebook profiles

Meta is deleting Facebook and Instagram profiles of AI characters the company created over a year ago after users rediscovered some of the profiles and engaged them in conversations, screenshots of which went viral.The company had first introduced these AI-powered profiles in September 2023 but killed off most of them by summer 2024. However, a few characters remained and garnered new interest after the Meta executive Connor Hayes told the Financial Times late last week that the company had plans to roll out more AI character profiles.“We expect these AIs to actually, over time, exist on our platforms, kind of in the same way that accounts do,” Hayes told the FT. The automated accounts posted AI-generated pictures to Instagram and answered messages from human users on Messenger