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Black pudding in the hole and buttery chicken curry – Gill Meller’s recipes for next level traybakes
Dishes that are easy, all in one and soon to be your new favourite midweek mealsI love this combination, but feel free to switch up the black pudding for some nice herby pork sausages, or a decent handful of firm chestnut mushrooms, if you’d like to keep it all about the veg. Once you’ve added the batter, don’t be tempted to open the oven door for at least 20 minutes, as this will help things rise as they should.Serves 2butternut or crown prince squash 1 medium (or part of one), about 800g-1kgsunflower oil 2 tbspfennel seeds 2 tsp, lightly bashedchilli flakes a good pinchsalt and freshly ground black pepperfirm dessert apples 2, such as cox or russetblack pudding 380gthyme 1 small bunch, leaves strippedrosemary 2 sprigssage 10-12 leavesFor the batterplain flour 140geggs 4, lightly beatenwhole milk 200mlsea salt and freshly ground black pepperPreheat the oven to 180C fan/gas mark 6.First, make the batter. Tip the flour into a bowl and whisk in the eggs until everything is nice and smooth
Caroline Lucas: ‘I can’t imagine my parents ever voted Green, but they became less antagonistic’
The former Green MP on patriotism, protest and and why Labour is much less ambitious than its votersIt’s tempting to think of Caroline Lucas as a kind of spirit of place in Brighton. She has arrived first at Food for Friends, the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the city, and there is something almost mythical in seeing the pioneering Green MP in its window seat, facing the Lanes, framed by trailing foliage. She has been coming here for as long as she can remember, she says – the restaurant opened in 1981 and used to have folk queuing around the block. She recommends the blueberry and ginger “nojito”, orders the Thai noodle salad and crispy tofu, and half apologises for still being “a vegetarian on the road to veganism” without quite yet arriving at that destination.It’s nine months since Lucas stepped down after 14 years in parliament as her party’s first and, in that time, only MP
30 things we love in the world of food, 2025
“My food is like your grandmother’s, but far sexier,” says chef Paris Rosina, the first part perhaps unsurprising given she grew up watching the likes of Fanny Cradock, Keith Floyd and the Two Fat Ladies. After three years as head chef at cult London bakery the Dusty Knuckle, Rosina changed tack in 2021, showcasing her retro, comforting yet humble style of cooking at a pop-up, Let Me Fill You Up. “It was six courses and all about stuffed food,” she says. Dishes included cabbage rolls, stuffed chicken wings and jelly (“I love jelly”), with a burlesque show thrown in for good measure. A regular supper club, Come To My House I’ll Make You Fat, soon followed, and dinners at her London home have sold out ever since
Notes on chocolate: make way for a new favourite
Last year a reader called Olivia got in touch to ask if I could recommend some chocolates to replace those her mum loved – Terry’s Spartan.These were a box of chocolates with a black and orange mountain scene on the front, that majored on the fact that all the centres were hard (and, as is the way with a lot of now discontinued chocolates, empty boxes of them go for ££ on eBay). Memorial Device on X once said of them: ‘not uncommon to find a box of Spartans with teeth marks in every single one – the unaware searching for the nonexistent soft centre,’ which made me guffaw. I gave Olivia some suggestions but she came back to say she’d ‘found the winner in Audrey’s Chocolates. I gave her a selection for Christmas and she loved them
Graceful wines with a twist in the tale
Subtle but beautiful wines from Savoie and JapanDomaine Belema Imago, IGP Vin des Allobroges, Savoie, France 2023 (from £34.75, terrawines.co.uk (lescaves.co
Gilgamesh, London: ‘It’s a weird trip’ - restaurant review
We’re here for a ‘culinary journey’ apparently, but where on earth to?Gilgamesh, 4a Upper St Martin’s Lane, London WC2H 9NY. Small plates £7-£19, large plates £9-£42, desserts £9, wines from £38A Monday lunchtime, and my phone pings. There’s a text. “Gilgamesh London. It’s our Birthday! ONE milestone gift to you,” it says, with a dizzyingly random use of capital letters
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