From workhouse flummery to jelly whip | Letters

Recent letters about desserts made with jelly and evaporated milk (27 December) reveal an interesting backstory, going back at least to the 17th century. In those days, it was made by boiling oatmeal down into a jelly, which was served to workhouse inmates and prisoners and was called flummery. Its blandness resulted in the word being used in its current sense as an empty and unsatisfying compliment.But it was reinvented and reintroduced after the second world war as a cheap dessert made from jelly and condensed milk, specifically Carnation milk. The vehicle for its reintroduction was an advertising campaign by Carnation, which promoted its “jelly whip” recipe in newspapers and on its packaging

Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for scallop, leek and mushroom gratins | Quick and easy

You can serve these in one of two ways: three scallops, each in large half-shells or small ramekins as a dinner party starter, or if you are lucky enough to have 18 small shells, serve them as canapes – my daughter appropriated my collection into her toy kitchen, so I had to beg for them back: “I’m making fish fingers in a shell!” She didn’t buy it. For anyone who isn’t a toddler, these are a lovely, easy, prep-ahead dish.Make the sauce and breadcrumb topping the day before, then reheat the sauce and cook the scallops just before assembling and flashing everything under the grill.Prep 15 min Cook 30 min Serves 6 as a starter2 tbsp olive oil 15g salted butter 1 large leek, trimmed, tough outer leaves peeled off and discarded, the rest finely sliced (about 200g)1 garlic clove, peeled and finely grated150g mixed wild mushrooms, roughly chopped1 tsp sea salt flakes 100ml dry white wine3 heaped tbsp cream cheese 18 queen scallopsBlack pepper 15g grated parmesan 15g panko breadcrumbs 15g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped½ tsp chilli flakes (optional)Heat one tablespoon of the olive oil and all the butter in a large frying pan on a low heat and, when the butter starts foaming, stir in the leeks and garlic, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until softened – you don’t want the leeks to take on any colour.Add the mushrooms and salt, and fry for five to six minutes more, until the mushrooms are soft and cooked through

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for ham baked in bread | A kitchen in Rome

As well as being a glorious thing, a well-cured ham is a generous thing, giving many times over. The first is the simmering, which Nigella Lawson describes as “a savoury clove-scented fog” filling the room, poaching the joint and creating a highly flavoured stock for later use. Then comes the second fog of roasting meat and, in the case of this recipe, the bread wrapped around it, which is an idea borrowed from a cafeteria buffet in Trieste.There is the pleasure of ham itself, too, brought to the table, carved and enjoyed, but only up to a point. When it comes to ham, it isn’t enough to hope that there are leftovers; it is necessary to ensure that there are leftovers, for sandwiches or to go with fried eggs and thin chips

The big pitcher: five jug-based cocktail recipes for summer celebrations

Take the heat out of entertaining with these refreshing, no-fuss drinks – from a boozy take on lemonade to watermelon margaritas with just three ingredientsNo one wants to be chained to the kitchen at this time of year. Cocktail jugs are an easy way to serve large numbers of guests with minimal effort. As they say, work smarter, not harder. If you’re planning on hosting a party to ring in the new year, here are five easy cocktail jugs to get you started.While my mates love a spicy marg, I prefer something a little more refreshing during the warmer months

Notes on chocolate: make it a sweet start to 2025

If you feel the urge to make New Year resolutions, just make sure they have nothing to do with chocolateI have no truck with New Year resolutions and certainly not restrictions at a time of year that is already a bit depressing. I want to tell you about a recipe in a cookery book I got as a present. It’s from Donna Hay’s new tome, Too Easy, because isn’t that what we need at this time of year?It’s a caramel chocolate slice that has a thick base of cashew butter, then a layer of date-caramel, peanut butter and chopped peanuts all topped with dark melted chocolate. You can store them in the freezer (less temptation) and soften them with a gentle turn in the microwave. The rest of the book is fabulous, too, mostly savoury dishes with some sweet stuff

Bring in the New Year with a burst of bubbles

Sparkling wines definitely worth popping this New Year’s EveThe Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.Costellore Diamond Prosecco, Veneto Italy NV (£8.99, Aldi) In a sense, sparkling wine no longer has quite the sheen of glamour it once had