Sir Torquil Norman obituary
‘Too sticky. Too saucy. Too weird’: could I persuade my son to eat the food of my heritage?
My family takes food very seriously. So seriously that when my mother’s family left Iraq in 1971, limited to 20kg of luggage each, they found room for not one but two rolling pins. The truth is that, having used the rolling pins, I think they were right. Born in England, I grew up on my father’s stories, too, of going to a Baghdad street stall to buy hot samoon, Iraqi bread shaped like a teardrop, with a puffy middle and a crunchy crust, with amba (mango pickle) oozing out of it. But he left Baghdad even earlier, in 1951, in a mass airlift along with most of Iraq’s Jews
How to turn excess egg yolks into an umami-packed flavouring – recipe | Waste not
Salt-cured egg yolks are incredibly simple to make and a great way to use up leftovers when you’ve used the whites in another dish. They are intensely savoury, umami-rich and a vibrant, golden colour, much like bottarga, or Italian-style cured fish roe. Once dried, they take on a firm, grateable consistency, and are ideal for giving dishes a final punch of flavour – I often use them instead of cheese: try grating over pasta, risotto or steamed greens.Salt-cured egg yolks are a fine project that I’ve been meaning to take on for a while. These golden orbs of deliciousness add an incredible burst of flavour to any dish that could benefit from a whack of umami
Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for double chocolate brownie tart | The sweet spot
This is one for the chocolate lovers (myself included). It’s rich and indulgent, which is why I love it. I can be a bit of a brownie purist – no nuts, ever! – but here I make an exception. The biscuit base stays nice and crunchy, while the tangy, salted creme fraiche topping cuts through some of the richness. You can serve this while it’s still warm for something a little more gooey, but it’s much easier to slice if you let it cool completely
Voyage with Adam Simmonds, London NW1: ‘A bit like eating at a weight-loss camp’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
It takes thousands of hours in a hot kitchen to cook like thisKing’s Cross in London is a place where a million voyages begin and end, each and every week. Which may explain why so much cash has been thrown at the area around the station to turn it into “an aspirational lifestyle destination”, rather than somewhere to stomp through grumpily while dragging a suitcase.By and large, however, this proposed glow-up has failed – the Euston Road will always be an unlovable, multi-laned traffic snarl-up – although now, if you creep into the Megaro hotel, you’ll find a minimalist Scandi restaurant, Voyage with Adam Simmonds. This plain, dark brown, oak-panelled room sits rather incongruously inside the recently restyled Megaro, which now has a Britpop, Austin Powers-esque, rock’n’roll theme and suites boasting names such as Groove Britannia and Pop Diva; Backstage Britannia comes complete with acid smiley face pillows.If the Megaro is a celebration of the 1990s London party scene, however, Voyage is a post-party detox in Gällivare, Sweden
Get a head: brassicas top Australia’s best-value fruit and veg for April
The price of leafy greens is also falling, while an apple, pear and persimmon crumble will make use of the month’s best fruit all at onceCauliflower and other brassicas are the highlight of early autumn veg, according to Dean Lamb from Watts Fresh in Kyneton and trader at the Melbourne markets.“A lot of growers will change from summer to winter varieties. If you pay attention, you’d notice the flower is tighter and whiter – you tend to get a bit of discolouration through summer,” he says.Try cauliflower in Nigel Slater’s cheesy cauliflower with ham hock and parsley or Meera Sodha’s roast cauliflower doused in herbs and spices to kickstart the crop’s new season.Brassicas generally are cheap: broccoli is about $4
How to cook the perfect roast whole new potatoes – recipe | Felicity Cloake's How to cook the perfect …
When I pitched the idea for today’s column, my editor’s response was underwhelming to say the least. “Is that even a recipe?” he asked, which is exactly the attitude that inspired me in the first place. Often the simplest dishes feel in the least need of an actual recipe, yet surely I can’t be alone in thinking that the leathery, greasy roast new potatoes that turn up so often on tables at this time of year show some room for improvement.I used to be of Jane Grigson’s opinion that “new potatoes should either be steamed or put into boiling water with sprigs of mint” – after all, they’re so good, and their season so short, from April to August, why meddle with perfection? But, having recently enjoyed crisp-skinned, buttery- fleshed beauties from a restaurant oven, I’d like to add them to my repertoire, too. While anyone can roast a potato, doing it proper justice clearly requires a little more thought
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