Sam Konstas makes debut to remember as Australia edge India on day one

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It has been a tour of polygraphic variation for India’s Test team.Down and out to begin in Perth, becoming ascendant by the end.Back to the ­bottom in Adelaide, dragging themselves out of trouble in Brisbane to finish the draw there on a high.But starting the fourth Test in Melbourne, right in the series at 1-1, was the first time the Indians have looked completely at a loss.It’s not that nobody has ever batted aggressively in Tests.

Gilbert Jessop, David Hookes, Sanath Jayasuriya, Rishabh Pant, most of England’s ­current lineup – plenty have had their shot.It’s not that nobody has played a scoop shot to Jasprit Bumrah in a Test – ask Joe Root, who soon found it didn’t work out so well.What is unique with Sam Konstas is a combination of factors: to be on debut, in front of a full MCG, facing a world-leading fast bowler whose series so far reads 21 wickets at 10, while at an age two years short of being able to buy a whiskey sour in Kentucky, and still having the stones to play that shot from the 11th ball of your Test career.Then when it fails, play it again.And when that fails, again.

And again,And again, as it begins to succeed,Perhaps that is the genius in ­picking a 19-year-old: less about courage, more about that spongy pre-frontal cortex, home to an as‑yet undeveloped sense of risk,Perhaps only a teenager would be game to take on that situation,Perhaps only a teenager would be forgiven if it had failed.

Or perhaps the tactic made sense.Bumrah started the day with as good a first over as you’ll see.At pace, the ball moving outrageously off the seam to beat Konstas on the outside edge: once, twice, thrice, whatever the word is for four times.So Konstas might have reasoned that he could keep poking around like Nathan McSweeney and wait to suffer the same fate, or he could try the opposite and see if the sisters of myth had something else in mind for him.Meanwhile, somewhere in the Big Bash lumping runs from fluorescent adversaries, McSweeney might right now be wondering if he should have tried the same thing.

It was never perfect, but that’s what drove India mad.Had somebody flawlessly timed those shots, they would have had to doff a cap.But the first attempt saw a ball clear the off bail.The second was too wide for the shot.The third made contact but wasn’t clean, a miscue trickled to the rope.

The fourth and fifth took recalibration halfway down.Konstas guessed that Bumrah would target the stumps, and was ready, but had to adjust to the line, shifting his target region from fine leg to deep third by moving his wrists to swap the scoop into reverse.Both were perilous.So all of those moments frustrated India.Bumrah started with a smile that said he had Konstas’s measure, and ended with a smile that said he wasn’t sure what more he could do.

Others were less sanguine, ­Mohammed Siraj getting verbal after Konstas charged him and hit a ball back that struck the bowler.While fielding that ball next to Konstas, Virat Kohli gave him a stern glare that was ignored.At the end of the over, Kohli walked the length of the pitch directly at Konstas and made ­forceful contact shoulder to shoulder, a collision that will be examined ­endlessly by a million self-appointed advocates.It seemed like it was not just ­audacity bothering the Indian ­players, but the fact that Konstas had got away with it, offending some sense of justice in the way that cricket’s luck is meted out.A few risky shots is one thing, 50 at a run a ball something else.

By the time he was out lbw to spin, Konstas had singlehandedly lifted Bumrah’s tour average from 10.9 to 12.71.He had derailed the quick’s opening spell and India’s concentration.In the ­session and a half that followed, India conceded half-centuries to each of Australia’s top four.

Sign up to Australia SportGet a daily roundup of the latest sports news, features and comment from our Australian sports deskafter newsletter promotionOf course, Bumrah being Bumrah, he later had a couple of spells yielding two wickets for 10, and India got ­Australia six down late in the day.But by then the horse had not only bolted, it had founded an underground ­resistance movement to come back for the rest of the herd.A score north of 300 on this ­Melbourne pitch already has Australia right on top, with Smith to resume on 68 and Australia’s capable lower order for company.Inevitably, Marnus Labuschagne, out for 72, will be chastised for another unconverted fifty.Konstas with 60 will be praised for setting the tone, taking the initiative.

It won’t always be this easy: as his career ­continues he will get little patience when busts intersperse the booms.See English infuriation with the ­similarly built Zak Crawley.But then, Konstas probably won’t always play this way.It was a specific approach for a specific day.That day happens to be his first, and people remember debuts.

So it’s a day that he will always have: at 10am, learning with the toss that he was about to bat.At 10.28am, racing to the middle ahead of Khawaja to examine the pitch.And well before lunch, done for the day, but already snapping ­selfies in the crowd, ­having become for the moment a new national cricket hero.The moment might not last, but right now it belongs to Sam Konstas.

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Catherine Brown obituary

The glories of Scottish cookery have had many advocates, but few as quietly eloquent as the food writer Catherine Brown, who has died aged 83. Her dozen books exploring every quarter of her northern realm, as well as years of journalism with the Glasgow Herald and the Scottish Field magazine, both provoked and recorded an explosion of interest in what her nation had to offer our stoves, palates and tables.This turn to her home territory came after realisation that the cookery she was teaching her catering college students was entirely based on a debased lingua franca out of French haute cuisine and that they, and she, would do far better to contemplate the wealth of materials available on their own doorstep. The anecdotal high point of this conversion was her persuading luxury hoteliers to offer a dish of venison tripe (disguised under a Gaelic name) to unsuspecting tourists who, of course, found it excellent.In a succession of books, such as Scottish Regional Recipes (1981), Scottish Cookery (1985), Broths to Bannocks (1990) and A Year in a Scots Kitchen (1996), she teased out the relationship between the kitchen and a country’s population, its landscape and its agriculture

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This wonderfully filling salad is perfect as part of a festive spread, or an easy, feed-a-crowd lunch with some crusty bread alongside; it really is worth getting hold of a jar of butter beans, too . The dessert, meanwhile, is the bread-and-butter pudding of dreams: an indulgent, chocolate pudding featuring a grown-up jaffa cake melting middle – just ask a bear to lend you a jar of marmalade from its hat. It’s best eaten minutes after coming out of the oven, but you can prep it the day before and refrigerate before cooking. Any leftovers are wonderful for breakfast.To get ahead, roast the squash the day before and marinate the beans overnight, then warm through and put the dish together the next day

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According to the cultural association Livorno Euro Mediterranea, the name of the city’s sociable soup-stew, cacciucco, is borrowed from the Turkish word küçük (small). The reason for this, according to the more plausible origin myths and etymology accepted by linguistic science, is the introduction to a Livornese tavern (possibly by a Turkish sea merchant) of a Turkish fish soup called balık çorbası. The resourceful and quickly adopted recipe called for küçük balık (small fish), and küçük was borrowed and became cacciucco.However the soup came into being, a recipe made from an amalgam of fish had the most favourable environment in a thriving Tuscan seaport with its amalgam of communities, as well as in the arrival of tomatoes in everyday cooking, in the late 1700s. The evolving cacciucco reflected all of this, so no wonder it became a symbol of the city

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