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Georgina Hayden’s recipe for sea bream with herby lemon and caper burnt butter
Frying a piece of fish has a bit of a bad rep, and I’m not really sure why; you can have a deeply delicious and light meal in less than 10 minutes (though that, of course, also depends on its accompaniments). If I don’t want anything too hearty, I’ll often serve it with greens or a salad, so it really is a quick turnaround. I love this simple brown butter caper dressing, because it doesn’t overpower the fish. However, if you want something a little punchier, add a spoonful of harissa to the mix.Prep 5 min Cook 20 min Serves 22 sea bream fillets (about 100g each) Sea salt and black pepper40g unsalted butter2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated2 tbsp capersJuice of ½ lemon½ bunch mixed soft herbs (ie, flat-leaf parsley, chives, mint) 2 tbsp olive oilTake the fish out of the fridge, pat it dry with kitchen paper so there is no moisture on the fillets, and season generously
Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for spiced roast sweet potato and beetroot with chickpeas and feta | Quick and easy
Make a big batch of this highly customisable dish and keep some for the week aheadYou can use lots of different spice blends here; I like baharat, but for ease you could substitute that with Indian spices or smoked paprika. I sometimes use purple sweet potato, but you get a nicer colour contrast with the bog-standard orange variety. The beetroot will still have a little bite after 30 minutes in the oven, so if you prefer it completely soft, cut it into smaller chunks or use precooked instead.This easy weeknight dish is even nicer the next day, so it’s worth making the full amount even if you’re cooking for fewer people.Prep 15 min Cook 40 min Serves 2-32 tbsp olive oil 3 generous tsp baharat 1 tsp sea salt flakes 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated600g sweet potato, cut into 1½cm-thick half-moons (and quartered if the potatoes are very large)450g fresh beetroot, peeled and cut into 1½cm wedges 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed1 red onion, peeled and very finely sliced1 lemon, juiced½ tsp sea salt200g feta, roughly crumbled25g fresh coriander, roughly choppedGreek yoghurt, to serveHeat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7
Rachel Roddy’s recipe for pasta (or gnocchi) with aubergine, chilli, lemon and salted ricotta | A kitchen in Rome
I have joked in the past about the peeled flesh of a baked aubergine and how, when sitting in a sieve balanced over the sink, it looks like a damp, grubby dishcloth. Well, a week or so ago, I lived this joke when I reached for a dishcloth that was, rather oddly, sitting on a plate, and for a nanosecond I thought that things really had reached a low for the cloth to be not just grubby, but slimy. That was before I realised I was about to pick up an aubergine and future baba ganoush.Other things occurred that evening, too, and in the end the aubergine was put in Tupperware with some peeled cloves of garlic and a squeeze of lemon (which I hoped might preserve it), and the box put in the fridge. It should not be a confession for a food writer whose job is to be resourceful, but I am going to admit it anyway: every time I put sealed Tupperware in the fridge, I wonder if it will get out in time
‘Reflection of culture’: large glasses of wine come off the menu for British drinkers
It may be a sign of changing tastes, of a health-conscious nation, or yet another example of the cost of living crisis encroaching on our few simple pleasures – but it seems the large glass of wine may soon be a thing of the past.While a 250ml option used to be commonplace, it is becoming harder to find on the menus of bars and restaurants up and down the country as venues increasingly favour smaller 125ml servings.At high-end restaurants, which would have tended to offer diners a choice of small or medium 175ml servings, there is a notable shift. Only one of the 20 top Michelin-starred restaurants now serves a medium: the Ledbury in Notting Hill. At the rest, diners are offered 125ml or a whole bottle at 750ml
Notes on chocolate: strong but gentle bars to relish
Some beans from Ecuador are really next-level in the right handsTwo bars this week that have absolutely knocked my socks off. Duffy’s 83% Ecuador Camino Verde, £5.65, and the 80% Guatemala Sweet River, £6.95. With the 83%, I’ve long had a real penchant for cocoa from Ecuador and Duffy’s describes the beans as ‘soft and gentle’ and they are! Duffy’s says that because the beans have been carefully roasted and there’s been a long conching process, any bitterness has been ‘driven off’ and it just leaves a ‘strong chocolate’ This is one of the most accurate descriptions of a chocolate I’ve ever read
Great Georgian wines to lift your Easter feast
Easter lunch means lamb in one form or another for many of us, and nothing sets the flavour off better than wines made with the saperavi grapeThe Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.M&S Found Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia 2022 (£11, Ocado.com; Marks & Spencer) At a time of year when many of us are gearing up to prepare a lamb-based feast for Easter, the food and wine culture of Georgia offers a novel way of approaching a meal that is, for most of us, rather less hidebound by family traditions than Christmas dinner
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