A road trip to Lambeau Field: my search for the magic of the NFL draft | Emma John

A picture


I’ve just got back from a road trip in Wisconsin.The upper midwest is not an obvious destination for a spring break, certainly not in early April.As my plane circled above Milwaukee, the brown and leafless landscape warned me I’d travelled back in time to midwinter.It was too cold to brave the beaches – the Lake Michigan shore was covered in snow and ice – but the bars at least were convivial.This is often the case in Wisconsin, the state with the highest alcohol consumption per capita.

Many of my fellow drinkers were keen to point out that they were responsible for nearly all the brandy sold in the US (as a collective, not individually),Aside from the best recipe for an Old Fashioned, the main topic of conversation was the NFL draft, still nearly a month away,One particular stat dominated everybody’s consciousness: the quarter of a million people expected to descend on Green Bay, which is hosting the event for the first time,In a tiny rural town at the other end of the state from the Packers’ home, I chit-chatted about the weather with an elderly jewellery store owner,“Oh, it can be yick yick,” she said.

“But I guess it’s not stopping all these folks coming up to pick some sports teams or something.”The upcoming draft was the perfect way to avoid dismay at the collapse of the global markets.From the wall-to-wall coverage on regional TV, you would have assumed that nothing was more important to the US economy right now than the price and availability of rooms in Ashwaubenon.The city of Green Bay’s young, bespectacled marketing director got more airtime than Katy Perry doing space.It was an early Sunday morning, towards the end of my trip, when I finally made it to Lambeau Field.

I’d eschewed the interstate and driven into town along the suburban streets that hug the eastern shore of the bay, which meant I could witness the continuous belch of the city’s industrial plants long before I reached them.I hadn’t really planned anything more than to park up outside the stadium and take a squint at it.But a guy called Tim who was emptying the bins on the concourse told me that yes, there were tours on Sundays, and the doors would open in 10 minutes.Tim’s company had been responsible for the lighting at the ground before he retired; now he did a 16-hour week here to “keep him busy”.He was far from the only person I’d met on my trip with a post-retirement job.

And those 401k pension plans were still plummeting.At the ticket office I booked for the 90-minute “Champions” tour (longer than the “Classic”, shorter than the “Legendary”) and since everyone else was either at church or sleeping off a Saturday night out I got a private walk-round with both guides to myself.Before we headed field-side, Pat and Bob took me to a window to gaze on the operation beyond the parking lot, where cranes loomed above a half-built metal structure, and hard-hatted construction workers weaved about its stunted legs in buggies.“That’s gonna be a huge main stage,” said Bob.Until 2014, the draft was held in a sequence of hotel conference rooms, and NYC’s Radio City Music Hall.

Now, it’s a three-day outdoor festival accompanied by musical line-ups and kids camps.Almost 800,000 showed up to Detroit last year – many had travelled hundreds and even thousands of miles, ostensibly to watch big-screen broadcasts of telephones being answered and delighted rookies trying to suppress expletives in front of their parents.But you don’t really come for the content.You come for the party, and the chance to say you were there, when your team snagged whoever.Green Bay can’t hope to host the Super Bowl itself: for a start, the average high in February is -2C.

There’s a black and white photograph that hangs in a corridor at Lambeau Field of the famous “Ice Bowl” game that remains the coldest in NFL history,The deerstalker-wearing supporters stuck out three hours in conditions which, accounting for wind chill, reached -38C,Sign up to The RecapThe best of our sports journalism from the past seven days and a heads-up on the weekend’s actionafter newsletter promotionJust as fatally, Green Bay can offer only a fraction of the hotel rooms the league requires of a host city,“So the draft is our Super Bowl,” said Bob,He still finds it amazing to imagine so many celebrities, team personnel and media flying into the tiny airport at Appleton.

“Someone told me they expect 90 planes.I mean, where will these people think they are, on the drive over?”Don’t ask me, I say.I’m a Brit whose sole exposure to franchise sport is an infant of a tournament called the Hundred.Its 2025 draft was reported from a chilly, echoey and all-but-empty media centre by a man called Charlie Dagnall, wearing a scarf and trying to convince livestream followers that this largely unnoticed allocation of playing staff was “two hours of absolute chaos”.Perhaps it’s because my own fandom is acclimatised to the continual motion sickness of promotion and relegation that I’ve never understood the obsession with the draft.

What’s the appeal? Pat’s answer comes instantly.“It’s a fresh beginning,” he said.“Everybody hopes that they’re finally going to get the best players, the players that are going to take their team to the Super Bowl.It’s about hope.” Ah, hope, that rare earth element, more precious in these times even than Silicon Valley shares.

But also, says Pat, it’s about the tailgating parties.His friends in the booze business here in town tell him the wholesalers have been sending stock up by railcar for weeks.Well, I say, I guess everyone could use a good time right now.“Did you know,” asked Bob, “that 85% of all the brandy in the United States is consumed in Wisconsin?”
A picture

Tatar Bunar, London EC2: ‘No faff, no lectures. Just dinner, and lots of it’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Tatar Bunar, a new Ukrainian restaurant in Shoreditch, east London, is styled as quaintly and charmingly rustic: wooden-fronted, with sage curtains, glass-panelled doors and stacks of higgledy-piggledy plates artfully arranged on shelves. Then there’s the food: sprats, potato latkes, varenyky, borscht and an abundance of wild mushrooms, and all of it influenced by chef Alex Cooper’s home town of Tatarbunary in southern Ukraine.It’s no mean feat to take on a corner of Curtain Road just yards from the shrieking neon ballpit that is the Ballie Ballerson cocktail bar and a Simmonds “fun pub”, and somehow create Tatar Bunar’s nigh-rural ambience, or the odd sense that it’s been here since for ever. But then, Tatar Bunar is Ukrainian, so in recent years Cooper and his co-owner, Anna Andriienko, have faced down far bigger problems than tricky interior design.Their new restaurant, the owners say, is an attempt to open up Ukrainian cuisine to a British audience

A picture

The sweet story of how a chance meeting led to Australia’s ‘old baby cake’ going viral on Chinese social media

When Paul Adam sees a long queue forming in front of his patisserie in the northern suburbs of Sydney, “That’s when I know I’m going to start working hard,” he says. In the weeks since one of his cakes went viral across several Chinese social media platforms, that has been nearly every day.The gluten-free hazelnut, meringue and chocolate mousse cake, with lorikeets stencilled in icing sugar on top, is, by Adam’s estimation, “only a cake” but it seems to mean much more to the customers queuing for it, some of whom have travelled from interstate, or overseas.The day Guardian Australia visited Du Plessy Pralin & ​Otello in West Pymble, Hong Kong resident Faye Chui told us trying the cake was one of the main reasons she chose to visit Sydney, alongside the Royal Easter Show.The cake’s popularity has surprised Max Li, the vlogger who made it famous

A picture

Gail’s to drop soya milk surcharge after campaign by Peta

The bakery chain Gail’s is to drop its soya milk surcharge after a campaign by a leading animal rights charity argued the fee “unfairly discriminated” against customers.Gail’s will offer free soya from 21 May, but will continue to charge between 40p and 60p if costumers want oat in their coffee or tea.With at least one in three Britons now drinking plant-based milks, the animal rights charity Peta welcomed the move to help customers make more ethical choices, but also called on Gail’s to drop its additional charge for oat milk.The charity’s vice-president of vegan corporate projects, Dawn Carr, said: “Charging more for plant milk leaves a bad taste in customers’ mouths, particularly when it is a choice they make for their health, to be kind to cows, or for the planet.“Peta celebrates Gail’s taking the first step in offering soya without the surcharge, but to spare cows from harm and reduce methane emissions, the oat-milk upcharge also has to be ground down

A picture

Cheap, reliable egg alternatives: what to use for whipping, baking and high-protein snacking

Australians gobbled down nearly 270 eggs per capita in the last financial year. But with more than 10% of the country’s laying flock culled in the last 12 months, an industry-wide move away from battery farming and rising consumer demand, prices are surging and supplies are tight – with some reports suggesting the shortfall could continue to 2028.Supermarkets Coles and Woolworths still have purchase limits on eggs, so for the egg-reliant times might feel tough – but vegans and those with allergies have long since developed a host of no-fuss alternatives. Here, they share their advice.Since the experiments of a French musician and an American software engineer gave the world aquafaba a decade ago, the unlikely substitute for the humble goog has become ubiquitous in vegan cuisine

A picture

How to make devilled eggs – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

The deliciously fussy-looking devilled egg and its pal, the vol-au-vent, were the ghosts of parties past for several decades before their triumphant revival as retro classics. Not only do these old-fashioned canapés look and taste great, but, as we’re belatedly remembering, the boiled egg, in particular, is a nutritional powerhouse far superior to a mere bowl of crisps. Make up to a day ahead, if necessary.Prep 15 min Cook 12 min Makes 84 eggs (see step 1)1 tsp softened butter 1 tsp mustard powder 3 tbsp mayonnaise, at room temperature (see step 8)¼ tsp flaky celery saltA generous shake of hot sauce ½ tsp white-wine vinegar (see step 6)Black pepper, to taste1 small bunch chives Cayenne pepper, to finishIf possible, make these with room-temperature eggs, stored on their side for as long as possible before cooking to centre the yolks and to make for a prettier finished dish. I prefer to buy mixed-sized boxes (large eggs can be painful for the hens; small and medium are kinder), but the timings here will work regardless

A picture

Australian supermarket dark chocolate taste test: ‘I feel like a refined, classy lady eating this’

One was ‘bold, confidently sour’, another ‘smelled like soy sauce’. Nicholas Jordan and friends blind test 17 blocks of plain dark chocolate to find the ones that raised the barMy chocolate obsession has been through many phases. The most ridiculous was the bean-to-bar period when, over three sleep-deprived days, I tried to fashion a chocolate bar using a large bowl, a hairdryer and a pair of blenders. It taught me it’s possible for home cooks to make chocolate that’s both delicious and interesting, but it’s absolutely not worth it.That brings me to my current phase, a stage of life that requires frequent chocolate purchases, sometimes in bulk and sometimes immediately