Working-class creatives don’t stand a chance in UK today, leading artists warn
Notes on chocolate: make way for a new favourite
Last year a reader called Olivia got in touch to ask if I could recommend some chocolates to replace those her mum loved – Terry’s Spartan.These were a box of chocolates with a black and orange mountain scene on the front, that majored on the fact that all the centres were hard (and, as is the way with a lot of now discontinued chocolates, empty boxes of them go for ££ on eBay). Memorial Device on X once said of them: ‘not uncommon to find a box of Spartans with teeth marks in every single one – the unaware searching for the nonexistent soft centre,’ which made me guffaw. I gave Olivia some suggestions but she came back to say she’d ‘found the winner in Audrey’s Chocolates. I gave her a selection for Christmas and she loved them
Graceful wines with a twist in the tale
Subtle but beautiful wines from Savoie and JapanDomaine Belema Imago, IGP Vin des Allobroges, Savoie, France 2023 (from £34.75, terrawines.co.uk (lescaves.co
Gilgamesh, London: ‘It’s a weird trip’: restaurant review
We’re here for a ‘culinary journey’ apparently, but where on earth to?Gilgamesh, 4a Upper St Martin’s Lane, London WC2H 9NY. Small plates £7-£19, large plates £9-£42, desserts £9, wines from £38A Monday lunchtime, and my phone pings. There’s a text. “Gilgamesh London. It’s our Birthday! ONE milestone gift to you,” it says, with a dizzyingly random use of capital letters
My boiler has broken and I’m finding solace in a slice (or several) of toast | Rachel Cooke
My subject today is toast, which is much on my mind right now, a buttery ticker tape that calls me constantly to the kitchen. Our boiler has packed up, the new one won’t be installed for a week, and though it’s only the central heating that’s down (the cooker’s fine), the freezing cold has turned me into a toast monster. It’s all I want, a feeling I haven’t had since I was a student and living in a house that was so badly insulated, we sometimes had to break the ice on the water in the loo. How many loaves can a person get through in a week? Come back to me in a few days for an answer. I’ll give you a tour of my chilblains at the same time
Ludovico Einaudi: ‘The way you blend the elements you eat is similar to composing a piece of music’
I live in Torino [Turin], a town where I grew up, where I was born. There’s a famous dish from there called bagna cauda. It’s a meeting of the garlic from the area of Piedmont, the mountains, with the anchovies coming from the sea in Liguria. It’s a very simple dish, a bit like a broth, perfect in winter, and you eat it with raw vegetables of the season. But there’s so much garlic in it that, when you eat it, you need a couple of days away from other people
How to turn leftover cooked pork into a classic Spanish bean stew – recipe | Waste not
Fabada Asturiana is classic Spanish cooking at its simplest and best. This stew of creamy white beans cooked slowly with pork and cured meat is traditionally made with fabes de la Granja (or judion beans), morcilla (Spanish black pudding), chorizo and lacón (cured pork shoulder, and similar to pancetta); it’s also the perfect dish for using up leftover roast pork.Meat bones are packed with incredible flavour and nutrition, so I always save them, along with cooking juices and fat, in the freezer to create dishes such as this glorious Spanish stew – leftover ribs, chop bones, ham hocks or roast pork shoulder, together with any fat, will all work beautifully here.In 2016, I went to a fiesta de matanza in northern Spain with my friend, the cook Oliver Rowe – the term translates literally to “the slaughter festival”, and it’s an annual village event where a pig is slaughtered and butchered from nose to tail. While it’s admittedly a bit gory and hard to watch, it is nevertheless a respectful, community-focused ritual that helps people connect to the origin of their food, and just witnessing proceedings made me reflect deeply on how I want to live and eat
Energy giant AGL is disputing $25m fine for wrongly taking welfare money from hundreds as ‘excessive’
Consumers don’t have a debt problem. The US government does | Gene Marks
Telegram fined nearly $1m by Australian watchdog for delay in reporting about terrorism and child abuse material
Hackers steal $1.5bn from crypto exchange in ‘biggest digital heist ever’
Antoine Dupont to the fore as France run riot with 11-try thrashing of Italy
Steve Borthwick may focus on results but England fans want to see an identity | Gerard Meagher