Noor Murad’s recipes for Gulf-style rice
The Gulf countries are known for their elaborate rice dishes, many of them inverted, so the bottom becomes the top and the top the bottom,Some of the best and most traditional ones are cooked over charcoal and palm wood in deep underground fire pits, so the smokiness takes over every grain,That isn’t practical in most homes, but I like to think we can still produce the most wonderful rice dishes with just simple ingredients and a lot of love,The name of this uniquely Bahraini dish means “bottom of the pot”, which is where all the good stuff happens,The meat (or fish or vegetables) is left to steam and cook gently without any liquid, and the rice is piled on top.
Don’t skimp on the onions, because their moisture is what helps move things along,The chicken skin doesn’t go crisp here; instead, it acts as a shield, keeping the meat nice and tender,Prep 20 minSoak 1 hr+Cook 2 hr 30 minServes 6–8½ tsp loosely packed saffron threads 2 tsp rosewater 2 tsp cumin seeds, finely crushed in a mortar2 tsp coriander seeds, finely crushed in a mortar1 tsp mild curry powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 black limes, 1 finely ground to yield 1 tsp, the other broken in half and pips removed1kg bone-in skin-on chicken thighs (about 8), patted dryFine sea salt and black pepper 100g yellow split peas, soaked in boiling water for at least 1 hour3 onions, peeled, halved and each half cut into 4 wedges (540g)400g floury potatoes (such as maris piper), peeled and cut into 5cm chunks1 large plum tomato (130g), cut into 8 3 whole green chillies35g fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated5 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated4 tbsp melted ghee 4 cloves 3 fresh bay leaves 6 cardamom pods 375g basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear, soaked for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours, then drained2 tbsp fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped, to servePut the saffron, rosewater and a tablespoon and a half of hot water in a small bowl,Mix all the ground spices and the ground black lime in a second small bowl,Put the chicken thighs in a medium bowl , add half the spice mixture, a teaspoon and a half of salt and a generous grind of pepper, and mix well to coat, then leave to marinate.
Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil.Drain the soaked split peas, add them to the pan and cook for 15 minutes, until two-thirds cooked.Drain and put in a large bowl with the onions, potatoes, tomato, whole chillies, ginger and garlic.Add the halved black lime, all the remaining spice mixture, two tablespoons of ghee, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and mix with your hands.Half-fill a large (roughly 28cm), deep-sided, nonstick saucepan with water.
Add two and a half teaspoons of salt, bring to a boil, then add the cloves, bay leaves, cardamom and rice.Boil for just four minutes, then drain through a large sieve set over the sink.Rinse and dry out the pan.Spread a tablespoon of ghee over the base of the clean pan.Spread over half the potato mixture, then top with the chicken skin side down.
Top evenly with the remaining potatoes, then spoon over half the saffron water,Top with the rice and aromatics, without compressing the mix, and spread it out carefully so as not to break apart the rice grains,Pour over the remaining saffron water and the last tablespoon of ghee, cover with a clean tea towel and the lid, then bring the ends of the towel up and over the lid and secure with a rubber band or by tying them together,Put the pan on a medium-high heat for exactly 15 minutes, rotating it once halfway, then turn down the heat to low and leave to cook undisturbed for an hour and 45 minutes,Take off the lid and towel, and leave to settle for 10 minutes.
Put a large platter on top of the pan and, in one swift movement, invert the rice mix on to the platter,Lift off the pan and shake the platter a little to distribute everything nicely; don’t worry if a few bits stick to the pan – just spoon them on to the rice,Sprinkle with the coriander and serve,This can be a side or a main dish – I like to eat it with fried fish, chopped salad and a spicy pickle,Prep 20 min Soak 20 min+Cook 1 hr 50 minServes 4-6⅓ tsp loosely packed saffron threads, finely crushed1 tsp rosewater 4 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced (220g)Fine sea salt and black pepper 400g floury potatoes, such as maris pipers (about 2 medium ones), peeled and cut into rough 2½cm cubes350g basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear, soaked for at least 20 minutes, then drained3 fresh bay leaves 5 cloves 5 cardamom pods 50g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes4 large ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthways (600g)2 whole green chillies 1½ tbsp picked flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped (optional)Put the saffron, a tablespoon and a half of hot water and the rosewater in a small bowl and leave to infuse for at least 20 minutes (or up to overnight).
Put two tablespoons of the oil, the onion and a half-teaspoon of salt in a nonstick saute pan for which you have a lid, then cook, stirring occasionally, on a medium-high heat for 10 minutes, until the onions are nicely golden.Stir in the potatoes, two tablespoons of water and another quarter-teaspoon of salt, give everything a good stir, then cover with the lid and turn down the heat to medium-low.Cook for 15 minutes, stirring once halfway, until the potatoes are cooked through and have taken on some colour.Meanwhile, fill a 26cm nonstick saucepan for which you have a lid with water.Add two teaspoons of salt, bring to a boil, then add the rice, bay leaves and spices, and boil for five minutes, until the rice is half cooked.
Strain through a sieve set over the sink, then rinse out and dry the pan,Put the last two tablespoons of oil and half the butter in the clean pan,Sprinkle the cut sides of the tomatoes with three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt in total and a good grind of pepper, then arrange them cut side down in the pan with the chillies,Top evenly with half the rice, including the aromatics, spoon over half the saffron water, top with half the potatoes, then repeat with the remaining rice, saffron water and potatoes,Poke three or four holes in the rice with the handle of a wooden spoon, then dot with the remaining butter.
Cover first with a clean tea towel and then with the lid, then bring the ends of the towel up and over the lid and secure with a rubber band or by tying them together.Cook on a medium-high heat for 10 minutes, then turn the heat to low and leave to steam undisturbed for 45 minutes.Take off the lid and tea towel and set aside for five or so minutes.Put a platter on top of the pan and, in one swift movement, invert the rice mix on to it; if any tomatoes stick to the bottom of the pan, just lift them off and arrange on top of the rice.Shake the plate a little to spread things out, sprinkle with parsley, if using, and serve.
These are edited extracts from Lugma, by Noor Murad, published by Quadrille at £28.To order a copy for £25.20, go to guardian.bookshop.com
Noor Murad’s recipes for Gulf-style rice
The Gulf countries are known for their elaborate rice dishes, many of them inverted, so the bottom becomes the top and the top the bottom. Some of the best and most traditional ones are cooked over charcoal and palm wood in deep underground fire pits, so the smokiness takes over every grain. That isn’t practical in most homes, but I like to think we can still produce the most wonderful rice dishes with just simple ingredients and a lot of love.The name of this uniquely Bahraini dish means “bottom of the pot”, which is where all the good stuff happens. The meat (or fish or vegetables) is left to steam and cook gently without any liquid, and the rice is piled on top
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